Monday, April 4, 2011

Culture treat from the Tribes of Araku

Araku Valley – the moment one thinks of it, a series of pleasing images of lush green hills and tribal people with their countless festivals and dances rush through one’s mind.

Nestled at 1000 metres above sea level in the lap of the gorgeously wooded Eastern Ghats, the enchanting Araku Valley is the home to at least a dozen tribes who, in spite of the winds of change sweeping across, still retain their centuries old traditions and folklore. They seem to lead a happy life like their ancestors did, miles away from modern day life. I revisited the valley recently and my brief trip left me spell bounded.  The Araku Valley is home to around 19 tribes. Tribal communities, including the, Bagat, Gadaba, Jatapa, Mali, Savara, and Valmiki are spread across the districts of Vishakhapatnam, Shrikakulam and East Godavari. The tribal women are found in colorful attire as they perform the Dimsa and Mayuri dances, especially during ‘Itika Pongal’ – the popular hunting festival in April. Few tribal art forms are Mayuri from the Khond tribe; Be Ba Natya from Bagata tribe; Andelaravvali dance from Savara tribe. The Dimsa dance is performed by almost all irrespective of their tribal community.
As part of my visit to the A.P. Tourism resort in Araku, a group of tribals performed a tribal dance. Lakshmi, who belongs from the Bagata tribe has been performing Dimsa dance since 1999. She along with ten members and two drummers performed for the audience.They are paid a total amount of Rs. 1,500 for daily 15 minutes.
Talking to her was rather easy as she spoke Hindi and Oriya mixed. She explained about the simplicity of their dances and their significance. They celebrate during harvest, hunting, marriages, and other seasons as well. The dance revolves around ten members, mainly women. Hands held at the back, the women dressed in coulouful saris tied in a different fashion, dance in a circular manner. They sing of prosperity and seek blessings from the almighty to bestow all with happiness.
As I noticed on the way into the interiors of the valley, gaily attired tribal women carrying loads of vegetables, grains and other farm produce were being sold in a market. Life echoed as the inhabitants gathered to sell or barter their ware. In exchange they buy kerosene, cloth and imitation jewellery. Apart from the usual buying and selling, the markets also serve as an occasion for prospective brides and grooms to meet. Hence they come in all their traditional finery and colourful apparel.
Araku women have a great passion for traditional jewellery which usually consists of a pair of earnings, pendants, three nose rings, silver anklets, chains and bracelets. These are basically in silver and brass material. The most commonly worn daily are the nose rings called ‘murpka’; bead necklace called ‘pusuanga’; ear rings called ‘gunlinga’; and silver anklets. They are also fond of modern beauty aids as evident from a number of wayside stalls selling a variety of synthetic plastic beads, colourful bangles and hair clips! But the most traditional ornament is the ‘adlia’. This is a necklace made of small coins which keeps adding up every year with the birth of a girl in the family. Though now it is hard to find.
A stroll through the valley with acres and acres of coffee plantations, swaying eucalyptus and gurgling mountain streams sketches an image across your mind about the life of the tribals. Most of the tribal homes are one-roomed structures with a small verandah attached to the front. Walls are brightly painted and beautifully decorated with images of animals, gods and goddesses drawn in colours. Some also live in bamboo huts with cow shelters attached to the house. The sight of technology actually left me surprised. A satellite dish was attached to one of the huts!
Walking through the narrow allies, I also came across the age old traditional equipment such as fishing baskets, grain bin, water pots, wooden spoons, rain hat and much more. Children playing in the lanes seemed shy and knew the rules of not talking to strangers. 
Life is a succession of festivals and fairs, song and dance for the people of this valley. They celebrate everything from the onset of the monsoon to the simple toils of daily life. During March-April, the people stop all their agricultural activities and undertake hunting expeditions to nearby forests using spears, bows and arrows. On their return the entire village celebrates through drinking and dancing.  The best time to visit the valley is during March-April when the silent night echoes to the sound of music and dance. But naturalists and anthropologists flock here throughout the year to explore the unending beauties of the valley that open up one after the other…endlessly.